Back in Besançon...again.

Switching Modes

Those of you with a keen eye will note that we haven’t travelled far since the last post.  There has been weed has been invading the canals for the last few years and the authorities are frantically looking for solutions.  In the meantime, travel in those sections that are bad is annoying at best, and impossible at worst.  We have dealt with weed infested sections of the Burgundy Canal before and managed OK.  But after arriving in Besançon, which is looking better than ever and has a modern, clean mooring we asked ourselves:  Why battle the weeds in the canals when we can have a comfortable waterfront apartment right at the edge of a fascinating and  ancient city? Our answer lead to us adopting a new mode involving more enjoying France and our location and less following the urge to keep moving.  More hikes, walks, day trips and excursions - and less traveling for Armida.

Our Apartment

The weather has been wonderful, there are few other boats about and our mooring by the Cite des Arts provides nice views, music from the practice rooms above (not always melodic but not intrusive) and entertainment from the various boating groups on the other bank.  All the while overlooked by the
magnificent Citadel. 

Hiking Hills and History

In the new mode I have now taken some time to explore some of the many trails that head into the surrounding hills.  As Besançon is wrapped by the “boucle”, or oxbow, of the Doubs river, is it at the bottom of a valley. So, like SLO all hikes go up at the beginning and down at the end – the way I like it.  Sometimes they are along roads for part of the time but the way I look at it, for someone without transport, it is still hiking. The old town is nestled into the higher hills while the new parts spread out into the flatter areas so forested trails begin a couple of minutes from the boat.

The climbs are not as high as in SLO or the views quite as extensive, but the trails are lush and green and full of history.  The early Americans trod a lot more lightly on the landscape around SLO than the inhabitants here did for the last few thousand years. So aside from the beautiful forest and spreading view there is a lot more to encounter.

Besancon was a major centre for the Gallic tribes before Julius Caesar made it a strategic city for the Romans. In the 17^th century Louis the XIV sent his army to capture it from the Holy Roman Empire and his chief military man Vauban to design and build its fortifications, only to have to give it back to the Dutch after the treaty of Nimegen.  He sent Vauban back again to recapture the town and continue his building frenzy.  The town is dominated by the Citadel high up on the neck of the oxbow  and there are fortifications on the nearby hills and smaller forts dotted around the town and along the river.  It seems to have worked, as it was never occupied again until the Germans came in WWII when the Citadel was used as a military base, a prison and execution place for the 100 resistance fighters.  It is now UNESCO  listed, carefully restored and home to museums and even, bizarrely, a zoo.  The old town is encircled by the river with the modern building on the other side spreading north to the flatter lands.  It is a large educational town so there are many students, and not so many tourists.  We are enjoying walking the old streets and sampling the restaurants.

Rosie is showing her age and tires easily, so we bought her a chariot for the longer walks which doubles as a high chair for them both in restaurants.  They have been the subject of frequent photo requests.

An Amazing Museum

One of the initial ideas behind coming this way was to get to Mulhouse at the other end of the canal which is the home of the French National Automotive Museum that we had heard a lots of good things about. Instead of taking three weeks on the boat I took and hour and a half on the train for a day trip.  My high expectations were exceeded! What a stunning place with amazing (all European) cars collection.  It did beg the strange question: “Is there such a thing as too many Bugattis?”. 

As I was leaving, I saw a line of English Austin 7s in the parking lot and figured it was a special exhibit.  No so: It was the Austin 7 car club from the UK on a 1000km tour of the continent who had stopped to visit the museum.

Dogs weren’t allowed so Terry stayed on the boat, I am hoping she will make her own trip.

Our friend Sharon arrived from California next week and we will share the joys and Besancon and Dole with her before heading for our next waterfront apartment location.