There is no doubt about it, summer is long gone. Weather is humid, intermittent rain, with an occasional gift of sun and mild temperatures. Today I bought wool gloves without fingers so I can still do needlework and a new warm sweater for under my jacket. Bring on the cold. We heard from PJ who had wonderful weather in Austria and Slovenia at the same time we were getting rained upon with chilly winds.
We arrived in France over a week ago. Until now we have traveled through small provincial villages that seem to be stuck in time and offers unassuming charms. We just spent our fourth night in Charleville, a once grand city with a huge square surrounded by buildings of identical architecture from the 17th century. We’ve been to three museums that offer information in French only. We decided that their Regional History Museums (Musee de l’Ardennes) is one of the best we’d been to. The content was interesting enough but the transformation of a 400 year old sandstone tannery into a modern museum was awesome. The exterior was absolutely unchanged. It was a three sided building surrounding an inner courtyard you enter through large gates. The handsome three story structure with a high roof full of gables was untouched. Once you entered you see that the outer walls remain the exposed lovely warm golden stone, yet parts of the interior feel as if you are in an Escher drawing with levels leading you in one direction on through displays. All the interior beams remain intact, yet the rest is modern in a tasteful and pleasing way. We began with the prehistoric bones of a Wooly Mammoth and ended up in the gables stepping into two rooms that made us feel like we’d just stepped into the home on a family living in the 18th century. No book about the work was available at the gift shop.
Once we entered Belgium our culinary experience went from disappointing to yum. After rarely eating bread, butter or cream, we eat it everyday with different pates, cheeses and fresh fruit. Even though we are on a budget and spend about 5 Euros on wine we’re happy. I’ve made myself sick with all this AND the pastries. In the beginning we had croissants with our morning coffee, Then we switched to pain au chocolate. Then in this town we discovered the almond, chocolate croissant. For dessert we have fresh plum, cherry or apricot tarts.
Although we’ve lunched a couple times at cafes (Noodle and Rosie too) last night was our first night out to dinner. A couple of Englishmen who run a hotel barge, with two couples from Ohio abroad, gave us a recommendation when asked. In the afternoon we walked over to look at it and saw that it was a Michelin listed establishment with prices to match. When we returned to the boat later we thanked them, but said it was out of our budget. In that case they sent us, not where they send their clients, but where they like to go. “ The Slanted Pig” a hidden bistro that was nearly full. We did not order off the menu, but made our selection from the items offered on the 19 Euros prefix three course meal. Nice starter, tender lamb stew with Moroccan spices and dessert. Loved it.
I’ve finished two little needlework projects and will now begin a a more difficult miniature kit that was designed by neighbor, Marny. I love the release and relaxation these afford me. Rob and I have both read many books and look for English speaking material everywhere we go. I bought Rob a quarterly magazine published by his beloved Economist. It’s kind of like a cross between the weekly and People. I’m loving it myself. Please set a side any good books that you know you will never see again for us to take next year on our trip. Listening to music and reading is how we spend most evenings.
A typical Rob story that more than anyone our girls will enjoy:
Rob says to me that he’s going to take apart the electric toilet to see if he can make it quieter. I say that he really doesn’t know anything about it. He barks back that I have no faith is his abilities and how can he learn about the boat if he doesn’t do these things. A typical Rob and Terry exchange. I’m happy to say that It’s now twice as noisy. And I love him more for being himself.
Rosie and Noodle went to the groomers today for a bath and trim. She did a nice job, made it personal for the dogs, they had full run of the little shop with treats, water and a free French lesson. In at 2:30 and out at 5PM.
The dogs have adjusted amazingly to being on a boat and the constant changes. One would think they preferred it to being home the way they get excited with each new outing. They’re fine with staying on the boat while we do no dog type things, they are well behaved on the street amongst people and show good manners when passing other dogs of which there are many. Except for a very large German Sheppard that has been walked in the park just outside our boat these last few evenings where they go crackers when they see him. It’s great having them with us.
We have zero news from friends and would love to hear from you. What’s happening there and with you?
Our best to Jeanne who is convalescing from surgery this week and Stephen who will be at her call. Hope all goes well.
Toodles, Terry
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