Pont d’Ouche
Up to Dijon the canal crosses the flat flood plain of the Saone. OK there were 22 locks so it’s not that flat but it is dead straight. Dijon sits at the foot of the hills of the Cote d’Or and the canal wends its way into those hills by following the valley of the pretty little river Ouche.
issue was on the front page of the regional paper so at least it is noticed.
This valley is very green and pretty so is very popular with the large and exclusive hotel barges. There are more of them than cruisers like myself and there are hardly any rental boats. Being stuck behind a Hotel Boat is a painful process and meeting one coming the other way can be interesting. As they seem to start their Journey on Mondays I decided to set off first thing Sunday morning to get a head start. It was another hot day and the VNF lock keepers met me at the first lock at the appointed time - 9:00am for me, 9:15 for them. The weed cleared after about 6 locks and we made very good time. I did a total of 21 locks and even in 34C heat did not feel stressed. All the locks from here on are manually operated and when there was only one lock keeper i was able to get some upper body exercise by getting off and helping to open and close the lock gates. Most of the time there were two and they were not at all concerned with my solo status. There were two Hotel Boats warming up at the little town of Fleury so I kept going. The stop that night was a lovely little lock keepers cottage that has been converted into a B&B restaurant and small mooring. So far I have kept all my paint but the strategically placed fenders have been doing good work and acquiring some extra dirt. My chilled Pastisse was very much appreciated.
My first guests Caroline and Phil will be meeting me at the top of the canal on the other side of the tunnel on the 20th which gives me plenty of time to potter along this stretch at my leisure. Accordingly the next day I only did one lock to the little town of Gissey, a favorite from out trip down this canal in 2011. The buildings of the old railway line are still there. Interesting that the line has gone but the canal it was meant to replace is still here. They take the knitting of trees to a whole new level here.
The next afternoon we moved a little further to the town of La Bussiere where it was Armida and two hotel boats. When you look out your window and all you can see is Wine and Water you must be in France.
This boat is owned by Max, a Frenchman and his wife Bea unlike many of the others that are owned by corporations. Max was born into the working barge life and went to the boarding (boring) schools set up specifically for the children on bargees. Their little dog Johnny and Lilou found some time to play together.
Many places along here are the backwater of the internet and at time only had minimal cell phone service – I think you needed to know Morse code. The next day was the 4th of July so how do you celebrate in France? Well a nice lunch at a Chateau of course. Well actually the restored Abbey La Bussiere that does a relatively reasonable and lovely lunch in the garden side restaurant. Lilou was a big hit and was interviewed by a coupe making a popular Video Log of the region. When we left I let her off to run around the beautiful grounds and she promptly turned around and ran back to the restaurant for more attention
Rain had been forecast starting on Monday but although the clouds circled and occasionally came close with some welcome breeze is had stayed in the 30s. Wednesday we moved along to the cozy little port of Pont d’Ouche (where they have internet) and the clouds started closing in. A big black mass of cloud went by to our west and the thunder rumbled continuously for 2 1/2 hours but fortunately for Lilou we only got some rain and a couple of flashes of lightning. The next day was cool and rainy, nice excuse to hang about in our lovely cozy boat.
Here is another addition to my collection of weird watercraft of Europe.
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