I apologize my blog writing has lagged because in have been busy and had little internet access.
I now have two days in a perfect shady location in the port in Dijon before a short stint down to Saint Jean de Losne and 10 days for a few more projects and pack up and winter prep. So I will try to get up to date. This is a long post so I have broken it up into sections.
DENNIS. August 5th-10th.
On August 9th we got to Montbard in time for a clean and spruce up before Dennis arrived from Sweden the next day. His connection in Paris took longer than expected so we walked around the town and had a nice meal out. Lilou welcomed him to the boat.
The next morning we braved the clown bikes and French roads to ride in a perfect weather to the Abbaye de Fontenay. it was as serene and beautiful in its simplicity as I remembered from 2011 and I enjoyed it as much as then. It is so easy to imagine the monks living their simple self sufficient life in this beautiful, secluded valley, starting in 1130. Dennis was suitably impressed but it meant that he saw the best first. If you are ever in this part of France make sure you put it on your list.
After lunch he was introduced to the slow but involving process of locking uphill and the slow and gentle progress through the countryside as we cruised up to Veneray Les Laumes and the foot of the lock staircase.
So after that short introduction intensive training began and we did 20 locks uphill before lunch and another 10 after to get to Marigney le Cahouet, and then another 27 the next day to Pouilly-en-Auxois. In one lock the doors closed on 5 half grown ducklings who scurried past Armida to the back of the lock. I wasn’t worried about them being crushed as the fenders keep the boat off the walls. They did complain loudly as we water filled and swirled. Mother duck finally heeded their call as the lock filled and they scurried past Armida to the front of the lock where they proceeded out as the gates opened. They wont do that again.
By now Dennis was a seasoned deck hand tossing the ropes on bollards with skill, mainly, and beginning to understand the boating life. Like so many people we have had on board he said: “Now I know why you do this”.
OK, so time for the tunnel. We went a little faster this time so didn’t get all the way through Dark Side of the Moon but did get some neat visual effect just after entering the tunnel at the point where the breeze stopped ruffling the surface and the still water beyond reflected the roof curve. It looked like we were about to sail off into an empty tunnel.
Then it was downhill with only one lock keeper so Dennis got to get off and help with the lock gates, even running between the locks and at one point getting on the boat behind us in the lock. They were Wally and Wendy whom I knew. So we were soon in Vandeness probably one of the most scenic moorings on the canals.
just like the last time I went through the tunnel the town threw a fireworks display to celebrate. Any excuse for fireworks in France. Actually it was astounding to see how many people turned out in this tiny village for their Fete day celebrations. There was a band and dancing and the next day more. It was a fitting ending for Dennis’s visit as we had a nice meal out and then a good view of the fireworks on the back deck along with Wally and Wendy and Tom and Lisa. Lilou retired to the bedroom for that event. This is how they block access to special events in France.
Dennis left the next day at lunch time but not before we had a long hike up to one of the lakes they created to supply the canal with water. The canal itself was a major project in the early 1800s but they also had to build reservoirs and pipes and channels to keep it filled with water. Dennis was a really good guest and I enjoyed his company - I suspect he may come again, probably not alone.
BACK DOWN THE HILL. August 11th - 20th.
A Day of rest left me contemplating the rest of the trip. I was going down the lovely Ouche valley that I got to know well on the way up but I still had unfinished projects on Armida. My Vignette (canal pass) expires on August 25th and is expensive to renew for short periods so I decided not to dawdle, not rush and aim for Saint Jean de Losne by the 24th leaving about two weeks before the flight home. The weather was now lovely with mild days and cool nights. So it was down the hill to Pont d’Ouche where they have a washing machine. Tom and Lisa invited me along for a car ride to a quirky and charming local restaurant in a neat, non touristy village and the local port put on another concert - not as good as the rock and roll. A short lovely day took me to La Bussiers were i resisted the urge to have lunch at the abbey.
I did set off early the next day so as to have lunch at the little restaurant by lock 34, forgetting it was Sunday, actually never really knowing. That meant lunch was a buffet and took 2 1/2 hours so with no nap I carried on to Fleury, arriving around 5.
Most of the Hotel boats appear to be using Fleury as their base now as it avoids the weed going in to Dijon so I caught up with Wine and Water again.
The next day was ambitions as I set off at 9am for Velars where there is a supermarket and a train up to the gold statue of Notre Dame d’Etang that towers over the valley from the top of the hill. That literally translates to “Our Lady of the Pond” but is a statue of the Virgin Mary and child. Why she is at the top of the hill and not by the pond is another story. Anyway it looked like a good hike so I aimed to hike up and back and continue on. It was warm so Lilou stayed guarding the boat. It was a good hike but poorly marked. Thank goodness for Google maps. Seems like they don’t was too many people hiking up to find that the shiny statue and stone dome is sitting on top of a cracked and collapsing church that they look to be rebuilding. Never mind, there were some great views from the launching areas they have cleared for the parasailers that hover around in the afternoon. Back down the hill and into Dijon in time for Lilou’s dinner at 5pm.
Dijon, Aug 21st.
This afternoon I have been sitting on the back deck in the shade of the trees with a balmy wind blowing, writing this blog and watching the locals, walk, bike, skate sit, read, fish and feed the birds. Not too bad. Still made some time to walk around this fascinating town. One more day here and its two days down the canal to start putting Armida to bed for the winter.
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