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Sunday, April 18, 2010

Friesland

I won't write too often, but when I do I may bla, bla, bla. Right now I'm feeling up and excited so I'm going to gush.

I brought the California weather with me from SLO to SLOten, which is the name of the village we are staying in. Everyday has been sunny and as long as you are not in the northern arctic wind, it's pleasant. Today was 65F! Every man, woman and child was out doing "something" with big smiles on their faces. It's too soon for tulips, but there are zillions of daffodils, blossoms on the trees while the other buds grow fatter every day.

The mixed use of land in each village is quite interesting. There are regular family homes between the older huge house/barn properties from the late 1800's. There are streets and bike path that connect you to every inch of the village and any village miles away. The roads are all well posted and as smooth as a baby's bottom.

We are staying at a B&B which was once a farm. Part of the barn has been converted into rooms. Our back windows look out over a vast grassy expanse with nothing in sight except an old windmill. Out our side windows we can see the working dairy farm next door. They had the cows out only once that we know of and we see few cows grazing. When I went outside to shake a blanket I spooked the cows next to our fence which caused a sort of stampede of the whole herd. They live most of their lives in the barn. It is a law that you must house your stock at night. Horses often wear blankets too. There are two kinds of horses native to Friesland. Big black stocky ones similar to the Clydesdales with long hair at the ankles and fluffy miniature caramel colored ones with long beige manes and tails. They are about the size of a Labrador dog.

The people are very friendly, most speak English and they have a good sense of humor. They like to make jokes whenever they can in a conversation. Rarely will you pass a person who doesn't acknowledge you with a greeting or nod. Today we had lunch at a café on the main canal. It was busy of course as it's the first spectacular Sunday of the year. We sat facing the little old fairy tale bike and pedestrian bridge over the canal of this most attractive small village, people watching. We saw at least five men we guessed to be over 6'8". Lots of women over 6'. I have yet to see one person who is overweight. Tall, lean, blonde, handsome healthy people. Very different than home.

Every structure is in tip top shape; perfect paint, lovely flowery manicured gardens and always an outdoor seating area. Unlike home where you can drive a neighborhood and not see one single person, these village people are out all the time. Rob said no matter what the weather. If you know them you stop to chat, if not they raise their hand. Not a wave more like the Indians saying "How". Bikes are a major mode of transportation. It's not that they are being trendy or "green", it's a way of life. There're always kids playing outside. That's a concept. Being Sunday if they weren't working on the house, garden or boat, they are walking or riding a bike. Whole families, three generations, out and about - Babies in strollers, 4-8 years old on wheels. I think today over 50% of the bike riders were probably over 60. Come to think about it, we didn't see many teenagers- Strange.

I couldn't sleep this morning and woke just before dawn, 5:30AM. I put on my warm coat with a hood and walked outside in the absolute quiet. Remember, there are no planes flying here, anywhere. There is nothing up there except birds. Sooooooo quiet. The old windmill looked magical standing out in the mist with a touch of golden glow on the horizon. First sound was a rooster crowing. He woke all the other critters so shortly all the birds started yakking - lots of birds here. Then a rabbit came out from a bush to eat a wild flower in the grass. My god it was like I was the only person on earth until I turned to the farm to the west and all the barn lights were on. Milking time.

Our village is within 6 miles of three other villages; within 20 miles of a few more. They each have a grocery store, maybe two restaurants and possibly a few various small shops. Eleven miles away is our closest town. It has a main street that has the canal running down the middle. Lamp posts, benches, bike racks, potted flowers and people fill the cobble street. But no leaves on the trees. For about three city blocks, both sides of the canal are lined with 200 year old row houses that are narrow and three stories high. The architecture is, in a word, charming. One side is all still private homes. On the other there are still a few private homes, but most have been turned the ground floor into a business. It may be a small town, but the variety and choices are very big city. I think one could find everything they would need here. Paint, flooring, bike shop, boat shop, drug store, nice clothing stores, children' clothing, toys, shoes, hardware, appliances, lawn mowers and much more. Each store is beautifully done. No slouches. Only a few of each thing is out so there is room for a big selection. I suppose they don't do a big volume of sales. We had to have the light fixed on one of the bikes off the boat. The guy who waited on us had his picture on the wall with three other men before him. They are his father, grandfather and great grandfather. The shop has been in the family since 1887. We're replacing the ugly grey and blue curtains in the cabin for some simple cheery yellow- gold ones so we checked out a place with fabric in the window. From the front this place looks like a nice little design shop. Once inside you see that it's actually two of the buildings and it goes way, way back. It was an 8,000 square foot high end design center. The woman who helped us look at fabric is the owner. Her husband's family has owned the store since 1954, they being the third generation. While there, her beautiful daughter came in with the three grandchildren. Of course she works there too three days a week and, yes, one day will run the store.

It's all so perfect that it almost feels like we are living in a Hallmark TV show, a Mave Binchey book or an alternative universe. Yesterday we even passed a small group of 12 year old boys riding their bikes with their fishing poles just like the old movies except they are modern rods.

Wish you all could be here. You would love it too.

1 comment:

  1. Terry,
    Loved hearing about Friesland/Sloten. Wish we were there. I think I would have a good time cycling.
    Barb

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